The 2010 Friuli Colli Orientali Ros di Buri shows more composure and finesse next to the 2011 vintage and avoids those overblown characteristics you find in the previous vintage. Dark fruit, smoke, graphite and tobacco frame this super rich Merlot. Vintner Paolo Meroi has pulled out the elegance of the grape and the power of the vintage. Drink: 2014-2019. The full name of the estate is Meroi Davino di Paolo Meroi but I have just gone with “Meroi” as the brand name because that’s what appears on the bottle. They produce the full offering of Friuli whites and show a strong interest in Merlot. Importer: Soilair Selection, www.soilairselection.com

Meroi’s 2008 Ros di Buri (Merlot) is an explosive, mineral-laced wine imbued with black fruits, tar, licorice and graphite, all of which meld together in a powerful, authoritative expression of one of Friuli’s top sites. This shows marvelous integrity and tons of class. At times I wonder if Ros di Buri should really be the estate’s flagship red. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Meroi is one of the most exciting young wineries in Friuli. One gets the sense the estate is close to major breakthroughs, especially with their reds. The wines I tasted from barrel during a recent visit point to a bright future. Importers: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767, Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4022

The 2007 Ros di Buri (Merlot) is a rich, generous wine loaded with ripe fruit, flowers, graphite and spices. Medium in body, this soft, accessible red offers outstanding balance and a silky, polished finish, where sweet scents of tobacco and herbs add further complexity. This is a high-class effort from Paolo Meroi. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. Meroi is one of Friuli’s hottest emerging wineries. Proprietor Paolo Meroi is ambitious and full of energy – plus it doesn’t hurt to have the counsel of close friend Enzo Pontoni of Miani in the vineyards and cellar. Importers: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767, Solair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4022

Graphite, road tar, licorice, violets, sweet spices and ripe dark cherries are just some of the nuances that flow from Meroi’s 2006 Ros di Buri.. This juicy, full bodied Merlot shows terrific vibrancy and freshness, along with superb delineation in its aromas and flavors. The wine puts on considerable weight and richness in the glass. This is a great example of the heights reds are capable of achieving in Friuli. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020. Once again I was impressed with the wines of Meroi, the reds in particular. The wines show the distinct imprimatur of Paolo Meroi’s friend Enzo Pontoni of Miani who does some consulting work here. Importers: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767, Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4022

The Merlot Ros di Buri is the second selection of wine that is not chosen for the top of the line Dominim bottling. The 2005 is a beautifully balanced, seamless red loaded with sweet opulent fruit, grilled herbs, roasted coffee beans, plums and smoke. It possesses terrific depth as well as an inviting, luxurious texture. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2012. I suppose it’s no surprise I ran into Paolo Meroi at Miani since he and Enzo Pontoni share a lifelong friendship. Pontoni has also been behind the estate’s rise in recent years as Meroi has adopted an intense, quality-minded focus which comes through in the wines. Importer: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767