The 2010 Friuli Colli Orientali Vigna Dominin Merlot is a completely different animal when compared to the other Meroi Merlots. This vineyard-specific expression shows a much greater degree of focus and sharp precision with dark fruit backed by spice, leather, tobacco and black granite stone. The wine is shapely but linear and coherent at the same time with a long thread of dark fruit and spice woven throughout the finish. If you’re looking for a powerful Merlot from northern Italy, this wine is worth your attention. Drink: 2015-2020. The full name of the estate is Meroi Davino di Paolo Meroi but I have just gone with “Meroi” as the brand name because that’s what appears on the bottle. They produce the full offering of Friuli whites and show a strong interest in Merlot. Importer: Soilair Selection, www.soilairselection.com

The 2008 Dominin (Refosco) bursts from the glass with an exciting melange of dark red fruit, espresso, grilled herbs and rosemary. It, too, shows marvelous intensity in its fruit and a long, exceptionally polished finish to match. This Refosco vineyard is still pretty young, and it remains to be seen what level of elegance this bottling might eventually reach. My sense is that the new oak is a touch excessive here, but we will see how the wine develops over the coming years. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Meroi is one of the most exciting young wineries in Friuli. One gets the sense the estate is close to major breakthroughs, especially with their reds. The wines I tasted from barrel during a recent visit point to a bright future. Importers: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767, Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4022

The 2006 Dominin reveals striking clarity and inner perfume in a dark expression of jammy blueberries, flowers, minerals, and chocolate in a dense full-bodied style. Still quite tannic, this muscular, intense wine needs time for some of the hard edges to soften. Dominin is 90% Merlot and 10% Refosco. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Meroi is one of Friuli’s hottest emerging wineries. Proprietor Paolo Meroi is ambitious and full of energy – plus it doesn’t hurt to have the counsel of close friend Enzo Pontoni of Miani in the vineyards and cellar. Importers: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767, Solair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4022

The 2003 Rosso Dominin is an outstanding effort. This old-vine Merlot (with a small amount of Refosco) reveals exotic aromatics and a richly concentrated core of fruit. With air, gorgeous notes of licorice, sweet herbs, minerals, chocolate and coffee beans come to the fore, adding further complexity to this highly individual, enveloping wine. This offers outstanding balance. Only the tannins could use a little more polish, but that is most likely a function of the super-hot vintage. It will be a fascinating wine to follow in future vintages. The Dominim is made from a selection of the estate’s best fruit. In 2003 there are 900 bottles of this wine. I suppose it’s no surprise I ran into Paolo Meroi at Miani since he and Enzo Pontoni share a lifelong friendship. Pontoni has also been behind the estate’s rise in recent years as Meroi has adopted an intense, quality-minded focus which comes through in the wines. Importer: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767