This shows interesting fragrances that mix fresh grain, grass and leaf. It’s pumped up with plush fruit; the wine is 100% varietal and 100% stainless-steel fermented. A confident hand is at the winemaking helm here; this nicely matches up the varietal character, the ripeness, the acids and the alcohol, keeping it all in balance. The wine is seamless and variegated, with a smooth, lingering finish.——P.G.(12/1/2007)—— 89