The Messmer 2008 Burrweiler Schlossgarten Weissburgunder Im Goldenen Jost Grosses Gewachs – which, incidentally, now comes in a huge, heavy bottle so deeply punted my hand almost disappeared into it, and which is presumably supposed to signify Grosses Gewachs – offers an aromatic overlay of lanolin and milk to its raw hazelnut, fennel pollen, and apple. Savory shellfish-like salinity akin to that of the 2007 version is allied to an oily-rich palate, with lemon oil and orange zest offering brightness and invigoration. Charred wood and chalk notes add depth, and the bitterness of peach kernel is well integrated into a soothingly rich yet minerally alive finish. It had been too long since I’d seen Gregor Messmer (although I am at his winery annually) and I was encouraged by witnessing him professing his rededication to his vineyards. That said, after a 2007 collection that was the best I had tasted here in a number of years, I found that some of these 2008s – which were harvested between the 18th and 30th of October – leaned rather sharply in the direction of leanness and Sauvignon greenness and shared with many of their fellow Pfalz trocken Rieslings an extremely tart brightness.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2006 Burrweiler Schlossgarten Weissburgunder Im Goldenen Jost Grosses Gewachs comes from a choice spot within the mussel-chalk Schlossgarten. Apple, banana, and diverse green herbs in the nose leads to a rich, subtly creamy, yet not heavy palate informed by pungent herbs, nut oils, savory salinity, and palpable chalkiness. This imposing example of what Pinot Blanc can accomplish in these climes is free of the bitterness and heat that mar too many similar attempts. While there is no track record yet for this wine, by analogy with excellent Pinot Blanc wines of a few other countries, I could imagine it rewarding up to a decade of cellaring. Following a highly successful collection in 2005, the Messmers struggled like so many of their neighbors with conditions in 2006. They added pickers and managed to bring in the crop in only two weeks.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300