Miani Buri Merlot Colli Orientali del Friuli, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy

米亞尼酒莊武里梅洛紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2356

The 2006 Merlot Buri is a massive strapping wine imbued with truffles, melted road tar, blackberries, herbs and minerals. An authoritative, muscular wine, the Buri appears to be headed straight for a period of prolonged dormancy, but when it awakens it will be majestic. All three bottles I have tasted so far have been nothing short of profound. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Miani is one of the very finest wineries in the world. This tiny estate is located in Buttrio, a small town in the Colli Orientali appellation in Friuli that contains one of the finest – perhaps the finest – terroir for pedigreed, ageworthy wines in northeastern Italy. When I meet a grower with proprietor Enzo Pontoni’s passion for the vine I often wish every vintage could be a great vintage. If quality could be assigned based on sheer effort and dedication every vintage here would be profound. Pontoni releases just 7,500 - 8,000 bottles per year from 15 hectares of vineyards. Many of his plots are old-vine, terraced vineyards with superb exposures. I tasted Tocai, Merlot and Refosco from various parcels in August 2009 and came away deeply impressed by the sheer integrity of the fruit. Sadly, 2008 is a mixed bag at this illustrious property. The wet spring and ensuing bouts with peronospora left Pontoni with a difficult choice; either treat aggressively to try to save the year’s crop but risk the longer-term damage to the vineyards from excessive spraying, or let nature have her way in 2008, but preserve the health of the plants for 2009 and beyond. Ultimately Pontoni chose the latter, which meant renouncing a significant amount of fruit in 2008. There is no Ribolla, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Saurint and the production of reds will be tiny even by Pontoni’s standards. The 2008 whites are certainly pretty, but they lack the kaleidoscopic quality that informs the very finest vintages. The 2006 reds are without question the highlight of these new releases. Both Merlots are exceptional, which bodes quite well for the Rosso Calvari, a wine that will be released next year. Readers who want to learn more about Miani may want to check out my recent feature at www.erobertparker.com. Importer: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767

The 2006 Merlot Buri is a massive strapping wine imbued with truffles, melted road tar, blackberries, herbs and minerals. An authoritative, muscular wine, the Buri appears to be headed straight for a period of prolonged dormancy, but when it awakens it will be majestic. All three bottles I have tasted so far have been nothing short of profound. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031.Miani is one of the very finest wineries in the world. This tiny estate is located in Buttrio, a small town in the Colli Orientali appellation in Friuli that contains one of the finest – perhaps the finest – terroir for pedigreed, ageworthy wines in northeastern Italy. When I meet a grower with proprietor Enzo Pontoni’s passion for the vine I often wish every vintage could be a great vintage. If quality could be assigned based on sheer effort and dedication every vintage here would be profound. Pontoni releases just 7,500 - 8,000 bottles per year from 15 hectares of vineyards. Many of his plots are old-vine, terraced vineyards with superb exposures. I tasted Tocai, Merlot and Refosco from various parcels in August 2009 and came away deeply impressed by the sheer integrity of the fruit. Sadly, 2008 is a mixed bag at this illustrious property. The wet spring and ensuing bouts with peronospora left Pontoni with a difficult choice; either treat aggressively to try to save the year’s crop but risk the longer-term damage to the vineyards from excessive spraying, or let nature have her way in 2008, but preserve the health of the plants for 2009 and beyond. Ultimately Pontoni chose the latter, which meant renouncing a significant amount of fruit in 2008. There is no Ribolla, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Saurint and the production of reds will be tiny even by Pontoni’s standards. The 2008 whites are certainly pretty, but they lack the kaleidoscopic quality that informs the very finest vintages. The 2006 reds are without question the highlight of these new releases. Both Merlots are exceptional, which bodes quite well for the Rosso Calvari, a wine that will be released next year. Readers who want to learn more about Miani may want to check out my recent feature at www.erobertparker.com.Importer: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767

As good as the Badie is the 2004 Merlot Buri is even better. It, too, is a full-throttle wine, but exhibits slightly more delineation in the kaleidoscope of blackberries, smoke, tar, licorice, minerals and cassis notes that flow from the glass. Totally seductive and utterly compelling, it left me speechless. I am not sure if any producer in Italy will release three reds of this quality this year. The Merlot Buri is made from a plot in Buttrio. The soil composition changes very slightly from the plot in Rosazzo yet the two wines are remarkably unique. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. It took me several years to get an appointment at Miani. Proprietor Enzo Pontoni literally lives in his vineyards, stopping home only for lunch and dinner. Pontoni represents the finest of the artisanal approach to winemaking and his meticulous, some would say fanatical, devotion to his old-vine plots is legendary. Once the wines are in the cellar a strict barrel selection takes place prior to bottling, meaning that the estate releases a total of roughly 8,000 bottles. Pontoni's 2006 whites have come together nicely since I first tasted them in barrel in December 2006. Readers fortunate enough to find this producer's superb 2004 whites should not hesitate to do so as they are terrific. His 2005s, from a much weaker vintage, are less satisfying. Pontoni's reds are equally breathtaking, as these 2003s and 2004s attest. The only problem will be finding them as quantities are minuscule. Pontoni told me that as he has gotten older he has moved away from the purely massive style that characterized some of his earlier wines (like the legendary 1997 Calvari) towards a more finessed, elegant approach. I can't think of too many wines I would rather have on my dinner table than those of Enzo Pontoni and Miani. These are among the finest wines being made anywhere. Importer: Small Vineyards, Seattle,WA; tel. (206) 933-6767

As good as the Badie is the 2004 Merlot Buri is even better. It, too, is a full-throttle wine, but exhibits slightly more delineation in the kaleidoscope of blackberries, smoke, tar, licorice, minerals and cassis notes that flow from the glass. Totally seductive and utterly compelling, it left me speechless. I am not sure if any producer in Italy will release three reds of this quality this year. The Merlot Buri is made from a plot in Buttrio. The soil composition changes very slightly from the plot in Rosazzo yet the two wines are remarkably unique. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. It took me several years to get an appointment at Miani. Proprietor Enzo Pontoni literally lives in his vineyards, stopping home only for lunch and dinner. Pontoni represents the finest of the artisanal approach to winemaking and his meticulous, some would say fanatical, devotion to his old-vine plots is legendary. Once the wines are in the cellar a strict barrel selection takes place prior to bottling, meaning that the estate releases a total of roughly 8,000 bottles. Pontoni's 2006 whites have come together nicely since I first tasted them in barrel in December 2006. Readers fortunate enough to find this producer's superb 2004 whites should not hesitate to do so as they are terrific. His 2005s, from a much weaker vintage, are less satisfying. Pontoni's reds are equally breathtaking, as these 2003s and 2004s attest. The only problem will be finding them as quantities are minuscule. Pontoni told me that as he has gotten older he has moved away from the purely massive style that characterized some of his earlier wines (like the legendary 1997 Calvari) towards a more finessed, elegant approach. I can't think of too many wines I would rather have on my dinner table than those of Enzo Pontoni and Miani. These are among the finest wines being made anywhere. Importer: Small Vineyards, Seattle,WA; tel. (206) 933-6767