The 2010 Friulano Buri is a deep, dense wine hiding considerable structure underneath the fruit. This is a relatively open vintage for the Buri, yet the wine possesses tons of depth. Slate and white flowers wrap around the insistent, focused finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. There are few properties anywhere in the world I look forward to visting more than Miani. Proprietor Enzo Pontoni continues to turn out riveting wines. I have been steadily working through my stash of 2009s and can report that the wines are every bit as fabulous as my reviews suggested. Production remains around 8,000 bottles a year, but Pontoni is developing a number of new vineyards sites, so hopefully that number will increase over the coming years. The 2010 whites are terrific, but they are tightly wound and need to be opened well in advance. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461

The 2009 Friulano Buri emerges from the glass with a textured, kaleidoscopic fabric of finely-knit honeyed apricots, jasmine and crushed rocks. This shows stunning length and a round, harmonious finish. A very slight element of sweetness suggests some of this wine may have undergone malolactic fermentation, which is generally unusual here. Once again, the finish is supremely harmonious. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Enzo Pontoni is simply on another planet. In the best years his wines frankly have no peers in Italy. The textural richness and depth Pontoni coaxes from his old-vine parcels is a marvel. The 2009 whites show an extra dimension of ripeness from a heat wave in August of that year that gave the wines more body than is often the case but without the excess of truly torrid vintages. Quite simply, I was blown away by what I tasted. For what it’s worth, I bought as much of these wines as I could afford. As usual, the wines are aged in French oak (roughly 40% new) and the malolactic fermentations are typically blocked. Importer: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767

The 2009 Friulano Buri emerges from the glass with a textured, kaleidoscopic fabric of finely-knit honeyed apricots, jasmine and crushed rocks. This shows stunning length and a round, harmonious finish. A very slight element of sweetness suggests some of this wine may have undergone malolactic fermentation, which is generally unusual here. Once again, the finish is supremely harmonious. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Enzo Pontoni is simply on another planet. In the best years his wines frankly have no peers in Italy. The textural richness and depth Pontoni coaxes from his old-vine parcels is a marvel. The 2009 whites show an extra dimension of ripeness from a heat wave in August of that year that gave the wines more body than is often the case but without the excess of truly torrid vintages. Quite simply, I was blown away by what I tasted. For what it’s worth, I bought as much of these wines as I could afford. As usual, the wines are aged in French oak (roughly 40% new) and the malolactic fermentations are typically blocked.Importer: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767

The 2008 Friulano Buri reveals gorgeous layers of complexity in its honeysuckle, ripe pears, flowers and minerals. This multi-dimensional, vibrant wine offers incredible detail and nuance, elevating Friulano (formerly known as Tocai) to levels that have seldom, if ever, been achieved previously. The Buri is always the more mineral of Miani’s Friulanos, as it is again in 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. Miani is one of the very finest wineries in the world. This tiny estate is located in Buttrio, a small town in the Colli Orientali appellation in Friuli that contains one of the finest – perhaps the finest – terroir for pedigreed, ageworthy wines in northeastern Italy. When I meet a grower with proprietor Enzo Pontoni’s passion for the vine I often wish every vintage could be a great vintage. If quality could be assigned based on sheer effort and dedication every vintage here would be profound. Pontoni releases just 7,500 - 8,000 bottles per year from 15 hectares of vineyards. Many of his plots are old-vine, terraced vineyards with superb exposures. I tasted Tocai, Merlot and Refosco from various parcels in August 2009 and came away deeply impressed by the sheer integrity of the fruit. Sadly, 2008 is a mixed bag at this illustrious property. The wet spring and ensuing bouts with peronospora left Pontoni with a difficult choice; either treat aggressively to try to save the year’s crop but risk the longer-term damage to the vineyards from excessive spraying, or let nature have her way in 2008, but preserve the health of the plants for 2009 and beyond. Ultimately Pontoni chose the latter, which meant renouncing a significant amount of fruit in 2008. There is no Ribolla, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Saurint and the production of reds will be tiny even by Pontoni’s standards. The 2008 whites are certainly pretty, but they lack the kaleidoscopic quality that informs the very finest vintages. The 2006 reds are without question the highlight of these new releases. Both Merlots are exceptional, which bodes quite well for the Rosso Calvari, a wine that will be released next year. Readers who want to learn more about Miani may want to check out my recent feature at www.erobertparker.com. Importer: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767

The 2007 Tocai Friulano Buri is made from poorer soils than the Filip and it shows in the wine’s greater complexity. The Buri beautifully captures the ripeness of the vintage while maintaining remarkable freshness and minerality. The wine shows breathtaking clarity and definition in a harmonious, compelling style. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. This is another set of gorgeous wines from proprietor Enzo Pontoni. Sadly the wines remain nearly impossible to find, even in Italy. I remember visiting the estate a few years back and trying (without any luck) to purchase a few bottles. Pontoni showed me his allocations. I assumed we were looking at case allocations, but the numbers turned out to be bottles! For those lucky enough to find them, these remain some of Italy’s finest wines. 2007 was a challenging vintage for whites, yet Pontoni rose to the challenge and made some wonderful wines that capture the essence of his vineyards. Unfortunately Pontoni wasn’t happy with his 2005 Merlots (from another difficult vintage) and he decided not to bottle the wines. Importer: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767