Deep garnet purple, in color, the 2009 Elspeth Merlot gives expressive plumy, pepper and spice aromas with underlying notes of blueberry preserves and loam. Full bodied with crisp acid, it has a firm level of velvety tannins, plenty of generous fruit and a long finish. Approachable now, it should cellar to 2020+. Importer: San Francisco Wine Exchange, San Francisco, CA, tel. (415) 546-0484

Here you have a massively constituted wine joined to well-charred oak that results in an enormously rich, satisfying and, more importantly, balanced sip. The fruit and berry flavors are hugely extracted, the tannins gentle but complex, the acidity near perfect. It all adds up to a young bruiser. If you must drink it now, have with rich foods like well-marbled beef or lamb. ——S.H.(11/15/2002)—— 93