Mommessin Domaine de la Conseillere Julienas, Beaujolais, France

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In their first vintage entirely controlling the production of this 7-acre property, the Vincents of Chateau Fuisse have rendered a 2009 Julienas La Conseillere admirably illustrative of this vintage's ripeness and concentration without generating any inelegance of alcohol heat. Scents of ripe red fruits and peony give way to generously juicy, lightly cooked yet tart-edged strawberry, rhubarb, and red raspberry on a palate suffused with the bitterness of berry pits and finishing with a lick of salt. To be sure, there is more structure than one might expect from its appellation. The estate advertises regular pigeage and pump overs, and perhaps a little gentler approach might have proven optimal. But I would plan on felicitously following this for another 3-4 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700