Pasta with tomato sauce comes to mind when drinking this dry wine, with its berry flavors and thick tannins. It’s rustic and easy, a carafe sipper that’s clean and easy in price.——S.H.(12/1/2005)—— 83

If you’ve been reluctant to try this old-fashioned variety, this value-priced release is a good place to start. It’s dark and dry, with plummy, earth, herb and tobacco flavors relieved by a rich streak of sweet blackcurrant. Beautifully structured, and a great accompaniment to tomato-based dishes. ——S.H.(6/1/2004)—— 88

In California, Italy’s workhorse red produces a juicy, richly fruity, dry red wine, with some of the highest acids you’ll find in the state. Soft tannins are fine, but that crisp tartness demands olive oil, prosciutto or pizza. Hold the anchovies.——S.H.(11/15/2001)—— 87