Unrelieved in acidity and dryness, this red wine is hard to like. The flavors are of slightly bitter, shriveled berries. It’s not flawed, just made in this style. ——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 82

Soft and simple, with vegetal flavors that break into cherries and Porty raisins. ——S.H.(12/1/2009)—— 80

Doesn’t say so on the label (and why not?), but this is made from the Lagrein grape. It’s a good, dry, acidic wine, with pleasant cherry, currant and peppery-spice flavors, in a structure like a silky Pinot Noir.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 87

The variety is Lagrein, an Italian grape. The wine tastes “Italian” in the sense of having very high acidity and extreme dryness. There are cherries, but earthier: balsamic-splashed grilled Portebellos and a hint of tamari. This is a good, interesting wine that needs good food. ——S.H.(3/1/2007)—— 88