Amid all the big, dark wines coming out of Spain, it’s sometimes nice to see a lighter-styled, old-school example such as this. The color is brick, while the nose is light, leathery and dosed with cranberry and raspberry. The feel is fresh and lively, with fresh-fruit flavors, tomato leaf and a touch of vanilla and spicy oak. Definitely a wine to drink now.——M.S.(4/1/2009)—— 88