This herbaceous, grassy, grapefruit-flavored wine bursts in the mouth with intensity. This is a fruit bomb, showing New World richness and concentration, very fresh and ripe. There are some tropical fruit elements, but more of green pear and apples.——R.V.(8/1/2008)—— 89

Sauvignon Blanc is Styria’s vinous visitors’ card, and Neumeister’s 2004 Sauvignon Blanc Steierische Klassik gets your attention with an intense nose of gooseberry, under-ripe apricot, mint and oregano. The palate is another example of a wine leesy and incipiently creamy and silky, yet juicy and invigorating. As for the finish, this little kitten – which enjoyed (if that’s the word) 18 hours of pre-fermentation cold soak – has claws. Importer: Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010

Musky, with aromas of lemon-lime, tonic water, and bubble gum. Downright spritzy in the mouth, where it almost seems to bubble up and impersonate a bottle of Sprite soda. Lacks sophistication, but pours on the citrus and green melon. Imported by Morandell Imports. ——W.E.(7/1/2005)—— 86