The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Kelham Vineyard shows off gorgeous dark fruit and a radiant, expressive personality. Hints of smoke, licorice and tar develop in the glass, adding considerable complexity to the racy dark fruit and the supple finish. This is a gorgeous, inviting Cabernet that will drink beautifully for a number of years. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2028. Tel. (707) 967-9600

Drink this with rich, fatty steaks and chops to cut through the tannins, which are considerable. Right out of the bottle, the wine is drily astringent. But there’s a rich core of blackberries, cherries and cherry liqueur that makes the finish almost sweet.——S.H.(11/1/2011)—— 90

Even more opaque ruby/purple-tinged (almost blue/purple) is the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Kelham Vineyard, which comes from a western hillside vineyard planted three decades ago. Like all the other wines, it is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Classic creme de cassis, vanillin and spice box aromas emerge from this full-bodied, dense, rich wine. Approachable now, it promises to be even better in 4-5 years and last for two decades or more. An impressive group of 2007 Cabernet Sauvignons from the Gil Nickel family represents an Oakville terroir lesson with the exception of the State Ranch which comes from a vineyard further south in Yountville.Tel. (707) 967-9600