The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Kelham Vineyard shows off gorgeous dark fruit and a radiant, expressive personality. Hints of smoke, licorice and tar develop in the glass, adding considerable complexity to the racy dark fruit and the supple finish. This is a gorgeous, inviting Cabernet that will drink beautifully for a number of years. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2028. Tel. (707) 967-9600

Drink this with rich, fatty steaks and chops to cut through the tannins, which are considerable. Right out of the bottle, the wine is drily astringent. But there’s a rich core of blackberries, cherries and cherry liqueur that makes the finish almost sweet.——S.H.(11/1/2011)—— 90