The 2008 Pinot Noir delivers plenty of varietal character beginning with its rose petal, cherry perfume, supple texture, and sweet fruit. It lacks depth and complexity but for $10 it is unquestionably Pinot Noir. The Cookoothama collection offers impressive value for its humble price.Importer: Southern Starz, Huntington Beach, CA; tel. (714) 892-3030CRADLE

Subdued and earthy, with hints of coffee and rhubarb perking things up a little. This medium-bodied wine’s tannins are a bit coarse.——J.C.(7/1/2011)—— 83