A soupy wine with grubby volatile edges. Brettanomyces. Poor. Drink now.

The 2010 Aglianico del Taburno Apollo is weighed down by evident oak spice and smoke. It ages in French barrique for just six months, but the oak has been stretched long and wide over the body of this wine. Dark fruit and prune are followed by toasted nutmeg and cinnamon. Sweet wood tannins are followed by aromas of black cherry and chocolate. The 2010 vintage has the added benefit of extra fruit intensity for better balance.

The 2009 Aglianico del Taburno Apollo shows floral and rose characteristics in front of dark cherry fruit, Spanish cedar and crushed mineral. This food-friendly red delivers a medium body and a simple, one-dimensional finish. Fruit comes from a relatively high-altitude vineyard (400 meters above sea level) that enjoys steep shifts between day and nighttime temperatures. It ages in barrique for six months followed by another six months in bottle.

The 2006 Aglianico del Taburno is an attractive, fresh wine with pretty, bright red fruit, sweet herbs and flowers. This shows lovely complexity and is best enjoyed on the young side. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Biodynamic farming and a non-interventionalist approach in the vineyards are the rule at Ocone.Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Available at an attractively low price, this oak-aged Aglianico opens with dark, brooding tones of cassis, dark spice, resin, tar and black licorice. The mouthfeel is firm and tight, making this wine suitable for a fatty meat dish such as a juicy cheeseburger.——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 86