The 2004 Savuto Superiore Vigna Mortilla offers up generous black cherries, flowers, minerals, herbs and sweet spices in a fleshy yet vibrant style, with firm yet well-integrated tannins that frame the fruit all the way to the long finish. This is a beautiful, bold wine, and while some rustic elements remain, it also appears to have the stuffing to drink well for at least another few years. The Savuto Superiore Vigna Mortilla is a blend of 45% Gaglioppo, 15% Greco Nero, 15% Nerello Cappuccio, 15% Magliocco Canino and 10% Sangiovese that spent 12 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Importer: Jan D’Amore Wines, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (917) 257-7994

The 2000 Savuto Superiore Vigna Mortella is the single-vineyard version of the Savuto, a darker shade of ruby, jammier, sweeter, and spicier on the nose with some interesting notes of game and raw beef, and a rich and ample palate with very ripe red fruit, cinnamon, chocolate, and raisins, and a strong, decisive close. Drink: 2005-2012. Stefano Chioccioli is in charge of the winemaking here, and it shows. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 398-5871