To keep it simple, the 2009s all performed as well as they did last year. They are straightforward, good to very good wines, rather than anything inspirational or compelling, particularly considering what’s available from many of the small estates in Chateauneuf du Pape. I liked them all – they are soft, round, and taste like Chateauneuf du Pape, with roasted herbs, loads of black cherries, and even blacker fruits in the case of the Galets Roules and Gres Rouge. They are all medium ruby-colored and meant to be drunk in their first 5-7 years of life. The only one that seems somewhat simple, although it is above average in quality, is the 2009 Les Closiers, which is probably their largest production item from Chateauneuf du Pape. As I explained last year, these are four terroir-driven Chateauneuf du Papes, each meant to emphasize a different type of soil that can be found in the appellation. The Eclats Calcaires is a selection from limestone soils, the Terroir Safres from compacted sandstone, the Galets Roules from the famous small boulders, rocks, and stones covering much of Chateauneuf du Pape, and the Gres Rouge from reddish, clay-rich soils. Importer: Cannon Wines Ltd., San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 394-6454

Aside from the rather insipid, superficial 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Closiers, the wines from this huge negociant offer more interest. (Not yet released) Importer: Cannon Wines Ltd., San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 394-6454