The 2018 Riesling Kick On Ranch is lovely, with powerful scents of white blossom mingling with fresh lime and peach on the nose, with a slate-like undercurrent. Medium-bodied, it has generous, pure fruit character with bright freshness and a long, gently textured finish. 181 cases were made.

The 2017 Riesling Kick On Ranch has a spicy, floral-tinged nose of musk, lemon-lime, petrichor and yellow peach with tropical fruits and honey touches in the background. The palate is medium-bodied and a bit weightier than expected but with lots of mineral and citrus zip and zing, finishing long and crisp. This has an appealing dichotomy of weight with fruit purity and delicacy. 180 cases produced.

The 2015 Riesling Kick On Ranch is a beauty that offers classic aromas and flavors of citrus blossom, mint and lychee in an elegant, textured package. It will be incredibly versatile on the dinner table.

An outstanding Riesling, the 2013 Riesling Kick On Ranch was raised in almost all neutral oak and has a scant four grams of residual sugar. Beautifully balanced, with classic lychee nut, green citrus and floral notes, it's medium-bodied, racy and lively, with its bright acidity nicely integrated. It's great now, yet I suspect it will have an interesting evolution over the coming 4-5 years as well.

From a cool-climate site, the 2012 Riesling Kick On Ranch is the best vintage of this wine to date. Giving up textbook lychee nut, citrus blossom, green herbs and a just a kiss of petrol, this beauty flows onto the palate with fabulous purity, integrated acidity and a clean, dry finish. Buy this beauty by the case and enjoy it with food over the coming couple of years. This was a mammoth tasting with winemaker Adam Tolmach and assistant Fabien Castel. While I had a number of these shipped to my office in Colorado (where I was able to follow the wines for multiple days), there were still upward of 30 bottles to taste through when I showed up at the estate. Adam continues to pull in his harvest dates, and in a number of cases, has released two cuvees from each vineyard, one harvested early (the Special Bottling) and one harvested later, which is still on the early edge. I have mixed feelings about the new style here, and while these early pick dates give his wines beautiful tension, acidity and energy, it comes at the expense of texture and richness, and the wines have a sappy, resinous, if not green, character that won’t be for everyone. Nevertheless, there are certainly some outstanding wines here. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com