The 2009 Olivier Conti “Black Label” is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc that is aged in French wood for 16 months. It offers a simple bouquet of blackberry, wild hedgerow and pencil lead that is clean and gains intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with chunky tannins and a rather coarse texture, the finish Bordeaux-like with a firm, dry grip and touches of bell pepper. To be frank, I expected greater finesse given the price. Importer: Winebow, New York, NY; tel. (201) 445-0620; www.winebow.com

The 2005 Black Label Red is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc aged for 12 months in seasoned French oak. Sandalwood, Asian spices, incense, cassis, and blackberry aromas compose the nose of this Bordeaux-like offering. A bit lean on the palate but with a sense of elegance, this is a racy, savory wine for drinking over the next 8-10 years. Importer: Winebow, New York, NY; www.winebow.com