Wafting from the glass with notes of crisp orchard, white flowers, freshly baked bread and subtle hints of toasted nuts, the 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Village is medium-bodied, ample and crisply fleshy, with lively acids, an open-knit core of fruit and a nicely defined finish.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Village opens in the glass with a youthfully reticent bouquet of white peach, Meyer lemon and spring flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural palate with ripe but racy acids, a pretty core of fruit and good grip on the finish. There appears to be a touch more cut and structure here than is found in the house's village level efforts from Chassagne-Montrachet and Meursault.

A beguiling bouquet redolent of licorice, smoke, spice and graphite leads to expressive fruit as the 2010 Puligny-Montrachet opens up in the glass. The fruit is a bit richer, deeper and more complex than in the Chassagne villages, with layers of yellow peach and nectarine that are woven into the enveloping finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. This is a solid set of wines from Olivier Leflaive's negociant operation. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700