The 2012 Bajoz Malavasia offers a crisp bouquet of greengage, fresh apple and a mote of chalk dust that is well-defined and very fresh. The palate is crisp and lively on the entry with touches of apricot, lemongrass and hazelnut, leading to a lively finish. For ten dollars, this is an impressive Malvasia that comes highly recommended. Drink now. Vina Bajoz is one of Toro’s stalwarts, established back in 1952 (as “Nuestra Senora de la Vinas”). They control a considerable 1,000 hectares of vine, and their winery can process 13 million liters per annum. Felix Solis Avantis acquired the estate in September 2008 as part of their Pago del Rey brand line alongside wineries located in Rueda, Ribera del Duero and Rioja. Theirs is a good, reliable, well-priced portfolio of Toro wines, although my scores reflect the fact that smaller wineries are able to be more exacting in a wine region that demands a more “micro” style of winemaking. Importer: Luneau Inc Westport, CT; tel. (203) 222-7733; and Ciatti (California); tel. (415) 458-5150; www.ciatti.com