I tasted from two different bottles of the 2014 La Montesa Crianza, one that had been decanted for 18 hours and one that was popped and poured. The wine had opened up, but showed no signs of fatigue or oxidation. The just-opened bottle felt a little more compact, serious and a little backward. It had only been in bottle for less than two months when I tasted it and it didn't feel dizzy at all. The amount of Garnacha is growing in most of the wines and here, it's already 85%, with the balance provided by Tempranillo; in 2015 ,the proportion is even higher at 92% and 8%. It fermented in stainless steel vats with natural yeasts, including malolactic, and matured in barrique for one year before being fined and bottled. 2013 and 2014 were challenging vintages, and many wines were not produced. In 2014 (and 2013), there is no Propiedad, so those grapes were used for the La Montesa. The palate shows great balance, and the overall effect of the higher percentage of Garnacha is a more elegant, streamlined wine that tasty with great freshness. A whopping 660,000 bottles were produced, which is remarkable for this quality and price; it does feel like a more expensive wine...

2012 was one of the driest and warmest years on record (the third driest August since 1961, the fourth warmest since 1961). The 2012 Rioja Crianza la Montesa is a blend of 80% Garnacha, 15% Tempranillo and 5% Mazuelo (Cari?ena) from grapes grown in the La Montesa estate in Alfaro, Rioja Baja where the red Garnacha reigns over Tempranillo. The wine is getting lighter and more ethereal, but this ripe 2012 has a heady nose of cherries in liqueur but also black and sour cherries, unnoticeable oak plus just a pinch of dark spices. The palate is soft and silky, with ultra-fine tannins, great acidity and balance. Again, a great showing for La Montesa. This wine is a true bargain; typical Rioja at unbeatable prices. They are transforming their trellised vines to head-pruned. Hard to beat as a great value. 700,000 bottles produced.

It’s interesting to compare the 2010 with the 2011 Finca La Montesa, which has a slightly different blend – 70% Garnacha, 25% Tempranillo and 5% Mazuelo – also sourced from the family vineyard La Montesa del Monte Yerga in Alfaro. It displays notes of ripe red fruit and spices in an elegant but in a slightly rustic way. The palate is round, with some tannins and ripe flavors. This is very good value. Drink 2014-2017. Palacios Remondo is the original winery in Rioja created by Don Jose Palacios Remondo in Alfaro in 1945. Owned by the Palacios family, it is one of the most important on the Spanish wine scene. Don Jose had nine children of whom four remain in the wine world. Antonio, Chelo and Alvaro started working for the family winery but Alvaro left in 1989 to start his own project in Priorat. Rafael, the youngest, joined the family business and he developed the white Placet, but he eventually left to focus on white wine, and created his own project in Valdeorras with the Godello grape (As Sortes and now O Soro) from the 2004 vintage. One of Chelo's sons, Ricardo Perez Palacios, was interested in wine and he teamed up with his uncle Alvaro to create the Descendientes de J. Palacios, in Bierzo, a region Alvaro had in mind right from the time he started in Priorat, named after Alvaro's father and Ricardo's grandfather, who passed away in 2000. Antonio left Palacios Remondo and Alvaro returned to apply his wide experience with Garnacha in the Rioja wines. As a result, the red wines have more and more Garnacha, the grape they reckon does best in their area. The wines are in the process of being updated, or maybe I should say that they are going back to their roots to the character of Rioja Baja where they are located. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700; www.foliowine.com

The 2010 Finca La Montesa, a blend of 75% Garnacha, 20% Tempranillo and 5% Mazuelo sourced from the family vineyard La Montesa del Monte Yerga in Alfaro, displays an attractive bright red ruby color, subtle notes of perfectly ripe red cherries, flowers, spices, flowers, wild herbs and some chalk sensations. It is extremely elegant. The palate is supple, sapid (umami?), vibrant, pure, balanced and long. Simply delicious and a great value. Drink 2014-2018. Palacios Remondo is the original winery in Rioja created by Don Jose Palacios Remondo in Alfaro in 1945. Owned by the Palacios family, it is one of the most important on the Spanish wine scene. Don Jose had nine children of whom four remain in the wine world. Antonio, Chelo and Alvaro started working for the family winery but Alvaro left in 1989 to start his own project in Priorat. Rafael, the youngest, joined the family business and he developed the white Placet, but he eventually left to focus on white wine, and created his own project in Valdeorras with the Godello grape (As Sortes and now O Soro) from the 2004 vintage. One of Chelo's sons, Ricardo Perez Palacios, was interested in wine and he teamed up with his uncle Alvaro to create the Descendientes de J. Palacios, in Bierzo, a region Alvaro had in mind right from the time he started in Priorat, named after Alvaro's father and Ricardo's grandfather, who passed away in 2000. Antonio left Palacios Remondo and Alvaro returned to apply his wide experience with Garnacha in the Rioja wines. As a result, the red wines have more and more Garnacha, the grape they reckon does best in their area. The wines are in the process of being updated, or maybe I should say that they are going back to their roots to the character of Rioja Baja where they are located. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700; www.foliowine.com

The 2009 La Montesa is a blend of 65% Garnacha, 30% Tempranillo and 5% Mazuelo picked by hand from the namesake vineyard and aged 20% in new oak. It has a well-defined strawberry, Morello and shortcake-scented bouquet infused with fennel and licorice. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, expressive red berry fruit tinged with burnt toast and white pepper, and an elegant, caressing finish that speaks of its place. This is a very commendable Rioja. Drink now-2018. Based in Alfaro in Rioja Baja, Bodegas Palacios Remondo is where Alvaro Palacios wields his talent when not in Priorat (or elsewhere). Given his exacting standards there, it is unsurprising that he has sought to decrease production in order to improve quality. It is also unsurprising that these form an excellent set of Rioja wines, sculpted in a more modern style, although to be truly honest, I found his cheaper wines just as good, if not better than the flagship Propiedad! Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, www.foliowine.com