Made in a lighter style, this wine is nonetheless rich and complex in flavor, proving that Pinot Noir doesn’t have to be heavy to be really good. It’s dry and spicy, with raspberry, cherry, red licorice and Dr. Pepper flavors. Drink now. ——S.H.(12/15/2010)—— 90

Tart and dry, with acidic flavors of cherries, currants, cola, mocha and spices. That sharp texture won’t go away with aging, so drink up. ——S.H.(12/1/2009)—— 86

Opens with jammy cherry fruit, cocoa, roasted meat and smoky oak, and has plenty of cherry, coffee and cola flavors, but needs just a little more grace and finesse. Still, this dry wine could soften and come together by 2005. ——W.E.(11/1/2004)—— 86