Pascal Aufranc – whom I have not met, and whose 2010s were not among the samples that reached me in Beaujolais and stateside – has rendered a 2009 Chenas Vignes de 1939 surprisingly modest in ripeness and understated for a wine of its vintage, but by no means lacking in delicious distinction. Faintly resinous; black tea; and lily-of-the-valley-like floral overtones add complexity to scents of fresh red fruit. Generously juicy and with a hint of tannic grit adding to the sense of invigoration engendered by berry skin tartness and mouthwatering salinity, this relatively lightweight 2009 will definitely bring you back for the next sip as well as contemplation. I would savor this surprisingly frisky 2009 over the next couple of years. Importers include Wine Traditions Ltd., Falls Church, VA; tel. (703)-534-3430 and Paul Young Fine Wines, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 232-5199

The Aufranc 2008 Chenas Vignes de 1939 is showing signs of maturation that are attractive, but suggest that drinking it soon would be advisable. (My sample bottle was closed with a synthetic stopper; whereas the 2009 was cork-sealed.) Tart, semi-ripe red raspberry is backed by subtle suggestions of beef broth and iodine. Lightweight even by Beaujolais standards, it finishes with plenty of refreshment and tangy invigoration, though not sweetness of fruit.Importers include Wine Traditions Ltd., Falls Church, VA; tel. (703)-534-3430 and Paul Young Fine Wines, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 232-5199