The 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros is ample and generous, wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, honeycomb, beeswax, white flowers and freshly baked bread. Full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's fleshy and enveloping, with a racy spine of acidity and a long, saline finish.

Aromas of citrus oil, peach, white flowers and pastry cream preface the 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, a medium to full-bodied, concentrated wine with a satiny attack that segues into a tightly wound core. Piuze always seems to produce quite a structured version of this frequently rather extroverted site, and the 2019 is no exception.

Aromas of ripe peaches, pears and almond paste preface the 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, a full-bodied, ample and blocky wine that's quite structured and reserved by the standards of this often-extroverted climat, displaying a layered mid-palate that's framed by a generous endowment of chewy dry extract. It's an impressive but muscular example of the vintage.

The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros exhibits notes of lemon oil, confit citrus, iodine and anise, framed by light reduction. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, glossy and textural, retaining plenty of cut and tension despite its gourmand profile; it's a bit firmer and more structured than the expansive Blanchot.

The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, which is picked now only in the mornings, according to Patrick Piuze, has a perfumed bouquet of grass clippings mixed with Granny Smith apples and freshly sliced pear. The palate has a twist of bitter lemon on the entry and is very saline in the mouth with just a touch of reduction on the finish that will dissipate by the time it is bottled. This is a fine Chablis for sure, although there are other grand crus from Piuze that surpass it this year.