More seamlessly ripe than its two immediate siblings, the Kubler 2009 Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepfle is generous with pear drops and quince preserves, accompanied by more classic notes of mint and rose petal. There is soothing, impressive polish, although I find the finish relatively simply and overly sweet. What’s more, I cannot imagine this mustering sufficient stamina or sustaining sufficient interest to justify cellaring for more than half a dozen years, which will be insufficient to make any significant dent in its superficial sweetness. Philippe Kubler is among the few Alsace growers I met to have elected – quite reasonably in my opinion – to market some of his 2009s ahead of (and others concurrent with) the corresponding 2008s. He notes that “the styles are dramatically different, and the 2008s deserve a year or longer in the bottle whereas the 2009s are ready to drink.” That said, I suspect that save for the V.T.s among them, Kubler’s 2008s aren’t really built for long aging.Importers include Chateau St. Martin, Bellevue, WA; tel. (425) 462 1717 and Wine Symphony, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 226-8283

A three-way marriage of classic rose petal, litchi, and quince with both cooling herbal essences and the sort of maritime and kelp-like elements that seem to correlate with certain Westhalten and Soulzmatt soils make for a most intriguing and delicious (as well as unapologetically sweet) Kubler 2008 Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepfle. The trade-off with the corresponding 2009 is less effusive floral perfume and lushness, but greater interest and sheer persistence. This can be safely followed for most of a decade. Philippe Kubler is among the few Alsace growers I met to have elected – quite reasonably in my opinion – to market some of his 2009s ahead of (and others concurrent with) the corresponding 2008s. He notes that “the styles are dramatically different, and the 2008s deserve a year or longer in the bottle whereas the 2009s are ready to drink.” That said, I suspect that save for the V.T.s among them, Kubler’s 2008s aren’t really built for long aging.Importers include Chateau St. Martin, Bellevue, WA; tel. (425) 462 1717 and Wine Symphony, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 226-8283

The Kubler 2007 Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepfle – for which there is no 2006 counterpart as all of the fruit went into a Vendange Tardive – is gaudily redolent of pink grapefruit, banana, litchi, gardenia, rose petal, and brown spices. It makes an equally effusive palate impression, with lush, creamy texture, high glycerin, and unabashed sweetness – with an added note of mint candy – driving home the luscious message of sensual indulgence. This should continue to put on quite a show over the next dozen or so years. Young Philippe Kubler returned to his family’s estate in 2004 after diverse and impressive international experience and is conscientiously working to pull this domaine into the vanguard of its region. It should be noted that the initial “K” in several Kubler bottlings is merely a way of designating his basic range of bottlings.Importers include Chateau St. Martin, Bellevue, WA; tel. (425) 462 1717 and Wine Symphony, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 226-8283

Kubler’s 2005 Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepfle retained 34 grams of residual sugar, posing at least for me the by now familiar question “what to drink it with?” But drink it – if only on its own – I happily would, as this is a honeyed, lusciously-ripe exploration of its variety from a top-flight terroir, the nose and palate generously showered in rose petals, fennel pollen, and brown spices. A juicy citricity keeps it lively, refreshing, and never cloying, while chalk and salt suggestions of minerality add long-finishing interest.After earning his oenology degree from Bordeaux, and a stage at Cloudy Bay, young Philippe Kluber – whom I did not have occasion to visit – took over at his family’s domaine beginning with the 2004 vintage. Based on the several samples that reached me while in Alsace from his second harvest, this is a vigneron to watch.Importer: Chateau St. Martin, Bellevue, WA; tel. (425) 462 1717