The Massouds last bottled a Cabernet with the same site designation as their 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Tuthills Lane in 1995. Charles Massoud says the berries were leaking color already at harvest here, something he has never before witnessed. Cassis and mulberry – backed by cedar – testify to the extreme ripeness of the crop. But there is no sense of cooked fruit, and instead one of invigorating freshness, reinforced by the tart chew of ripe fruit skins. Peat, iodine, and pungent herbs add to the aromatic intensity as well as the palate-staining finish on exhibit in this wine that emphasizes grip and grit over polish. Expect it to be worth following for another 6-8 years. Veteran Charles Massoud and his oldest son, Kareem, are practicing increasing selectivity and sorting of fruit as well as ever more sensitive and targeted extraction, and their 2007s build on and refine the success of their 2005s.Tel. (631) 722-8800

Only 69 cases of Paumanok's top red wine, the 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon Tuthills Lane Vineyard Limited Edition, were produced, even though the label says 75. It offers a black color, and backward tar and licorice aromas. This full-bodied, chewy mouthful of a wine coats the palate with eucalyptus-tinged blackberries and black currants. It is an intense wine that leaves little to the imagination, yet is immensely impressive because of its power and assertiveness. Projected maturity: 2002-2007.Tel: 516-722-8800