The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Vanotu is an old-vines selection bottled to celebrate the estate’s 50th anniversary. Espresso, mocha, spices, grilled herbs and tar are some of the nuances that emerge from this complex, intriguing Barbaresco. Still youthful and vibrant, this powerhouse Barbaresco possesses dazzling complexity, great depth and the structure to age beautifully for many years. It is one of the most fascinating, multi-dimensional wines I have ever tasted at this address. Proprietor Giorgio Pelissero says his Vanotu Riserva is a one-time wine made to celebrate the estate’s 50th anniversary, but I can’t imagine why he wouldn’t bottle it in other top vintages. What a shame. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Pelissero is one of my favorite producers in Barbaresco. Year in, year out proprietor Giorgio Pelissero does a fabulous job with all of his wines, from top to bottom. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907