The 2005 Pinot Noir “Goldschmidt Vineyard” spent 10 months in 50% new and 50% one year old French oak. Dark ruby-colored, the oak is more obvious in this wine but certainly not overdone. The wine has a supple entry with excellent intensity and plenty of spicy, dark fruit flavors. It does not have the length of the Dussin Vineyard but is nevertheless a harmonious wine that should evolve for several years and drink well through 2020. Lynn Penner-Ash had a long, successful career at Rex Hill before starting her namesake winery with her husband Ron in 1998. They are now ensconced in a new gravity-flow winery of their own design. She describes the 2005 vintage as “challenging” both because of the weather and because it was their first vintage in the new winery. Tel. (503) 554-5545; www.pennerash.com. Also tasted: 2006 Viognier (90), 2006 Riesling (90), 2005 Syrah (90)

From a vineyard that produces wine with seductively sweet fruit, the 2004 Pinot Noir Goldschmidt Vineyard offers aromas of candied black cherries. Due to the vintage’s vagaries (which began with a cold snap during flowering), this wine was made from 0.4 ton per acre yields, a paltry amount. It expands on the palate to reveal jammy black cherry flavors that are almost syrup-like. Harmonious and elegant, this is a medium-bodied, sensual wine for drinking over the next 4-5 years. www.pennerash.com; tel. (503) 554-5545

Produced from a vineyard I’ve come to greatly admire (it’s also known as Dundee Hills Vineyard), the candied red cherry-scented 2002 Pinot Noir Goldschmidt Vineyard is a seductive, sexy wine. Plush layers of candied berries and cherries galore are found in this hedonistic effort’s medium to full-bodied, satin-textured personality. Concentrated, sumptuous, and boasting a long, fruit-filled finish, it is a candidate for drinking over the next 10 years. Tel. (503) 554-5545 www.pennerash.com