1996 was a much hotter year than 1997, 1995, and 1994. While the 1996s are outstanding wines, in some cases the aromatics are more muted because of 1996's high heat. As the tasting notes and ratings evidence, the Chardonnays are slightly more bunched in scores and quality than in vintages such as 1995 and 1994. Sadly, I learned that 1996 will be the last vintage for the Clos du Ciel. The estate was not sure whether the name Clos du Ciel would continue, but the source for these grapes has been lost. As for the 1996 Chardonnay Clos du Ciel, it is a beautifully made wine with an exotic honeysuckle, orange rind, and tropical fruit-scented nose infused with a subtle dose of toasty oak. The wine possesses a lush, round, texture, considerable complexity, and a medium to full-bodied, lusty finish. I would opt for drinking it over the next several years. All of Peter Michael's top wines, including the Chardonnays, are bottled without filtration. Readers should make it a point to visit this winery situated in Knights Valley, not far from the Napa/Sonoma county line. The quality is extraordinary, and the commitment and talent of the winery staff laudatory. Moreover, the winery seems committed to achieving even greater quality.Tel. (707) 942-4459; Fax (707) 942-0209

Led by Mark Aubert, one of California's most talented, enthusiastic, and energetic young wine-making teams is pushing Peter Michael into the stratosphere. This is one of the most exciting wineries in not only Sonoma, California, but the world. It is not often you find a winery making exceptional Sauvignon, multiple cuvees of profoundly rich Chardonnays, and a Bordeaux-styled, classy, complex red wine. No one is missing a step at this winery located in the beautiful Knight's Valley, on the road between Calistoga and Santa Rosa.Peter Michael's 1994 Chardonnays have achieved such a high level of quality that they rival past vintages of the winery's luxury cuvee, Point Rouge. There are nearly 2,400 cases of the 1994 Chardonnay Clos du Ciel, much of which came from fruit grown in the Liparita Vineyard on Howell Mountain. Most of the wine is fermented with wild yeast in French oak casks and bottled unfiltered. The 1994 is a gorgeously made Chardonnay that could easily compete with any Batard-Montrachet from Burgundy. It offers a rich, complex nose of honeyed oranges and other citrus fruits, toast, and floral scents. There is full body, great purity and ripeness, and a long, intense finish with enough acidity for balance. These are stunning Chardonnays that will be gobbled up when they hit the marketplace in 1996. Tel. (707) 942-4459; Fax (707) 942-0209

The 1993 Peter Michael Chardonnays are all noteworthy wines. The 1993 Chardonnay Clos du Ciel represents the winery's largest single cuvee as nearly 2,000 cases are produced. The wine exhibits delicious oak beautifully integrated with gobs of ripe, honeyed apple fruit. There is a natural mouth-feel, as well as enough acidity to provide focus and a dry, crisp, elegant, authoritatively-flavored finish. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Tel. (707) 942-4459

Peter Michael produces four cuvees of Chardonnay, all of which are outstanding in 1992. The 1992 Chardonnay Clos du Ciel from Howell Mountain reveals a rich, lemony, buttery, subtle vanillin-scented nose, full-bodied, concentrated flavors with a classical Chardonnay profile, and a vibrant, concentrated finish. Bottled unfiltered and without acidification, this wine offers a natural, pure impression on the palate. It should drink well for 3-5 years.The only one of the four 1992 offerings that has been released is the Clos du Ciel. The other three wines will be released on September 1st. I should also note that the 1993 Peter Michael Chardonnays should turn out to be as profound as the 1992s.During my visit, I saw once more an example of the effect of filtration on the aging process of Chardonnay. Peter Michael had produced two cuvees of 1988 Chardonnay Mon Plaisir, one filtered (the one most likely to have been purchased commercially) and one unfiltered (called the Red Dot Cuvee because Helen Turley had put a red dot on the label). Both wines were exactly the same except for the handling they received at bottling. When I tasted the wines during my visit, the filtered wine was stale, with an absence of any fruit in the bouquet, and short, compact flavors. The unfiltered "Red Dot" Mon Plaisir was honeyed, vibrant, and rich, having lost none of its freshness or fruit.One of the most exciting in California, this beautiful winery is owned by Englishman Sir Peter Michael. When he launched this winery, Michael had the foresight to hire the brilliant Helen Turley to oversee the winemaking (Ms. Turley has now left this estate in order to pursue her own venture). The current vineyard/winemaking team shares Ms. Turley's winemaking philosophy. The present as well as upcoming releases are irrefutably brilliant wines. Given the limited availability, readers may want to call the winery to find out about distribution of these wines.The telephone number is (707) 942-4459.