The pithy, smoky, citric Pfeffingen 2009 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Spatlese trocken – like its Kabinett counterpart – is a wine I certainly wouldn’t want to see with one gram less residual sugar. Its 13.5% alcohol serves for body and glycerin but generates no heat, while suggestions of ripe musk melon lend a much-needed sense of juiciness. Peach kernel, almond, pumpkin, and pumpkin seed inform an impressively persistent, penetrating and piquant finish. I would plan on serving this Eymael Riesling – for me, his most successful of the 2009 vintage – over the next 4-6 years. Jan Eymael elected to perform significant leaf-removal in order to permit his crop – especially the Scheurebe – to hang free, with the result, he explained, “that botrytis never really could establish itself” and the range of nobly sweet Scheurebe one generally looks forward to at this address is absent from 2009. Total acid levels are moderate this year, but the low pH levels in the grapes led Eymael to give his dry wines longer skin contact than usual to help buffer them. “Bear in mind that we’re one of the warmest spots in the Pfalz,” notes Eymael in connection with this year’s early, September 28, commencement of his Riesling harvest, though picking continued for nearly three weeks.Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463

Picked ten days later than a corresponding, slightly sharp Kabinett trocken, the Pfeffingen 2008 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Spatlese trocken radiates bright citrus in the nose and on the palate, along with ripe yellow plum; without any sharpness; with its herbal aspects enhancing the sense of refreshment; and smoky, saline notes adding invigoration to the finish. This lean but extract-rich wine should be worth following for at least half a dozen years, if paired adeptly at table. It threatened to become another 2006, said Jan Eymael of the mid-September, 2008 rain, but even in the warmest parts of the Pfalz the weather stayed relatively cool, and he did not pick the first Rieslings until September 30, then continuing off and on for three weeks. The later it got, the better the grapes became, comments Eymael. Another month on the vine allowed for the November 18 picking of two magnificent nobly sweet Scheureben.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463

Pungent smoke, brown spices, persimmon, and herbs mark the nose of the 2006 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Spatlese trocken and a bright, citric palate ensues, leading to a chalky, saline, smoky, malted, spicy finish. This pristine, elegant Riesling completely belies its 13.5% alcohol, and will prove versatile over the next 3-4 years at least. The Eymaels are now utilizing the old, original vineyard name to designate their top dry wine from the Herrenberg. Pfeffingen suffered 40% losses vis a vis normal, even though most of their crop had already been picked when the worst rains arrived on October 3rd. Scheurebe was so resistant to the effects of rain, Jan Eymael reports, that they did not even begin picking it until all of the Riesling was finished, and at that point the fruit was still healthy. But not for long: a week later, says Eymael, Beerenauslese could be picked straight from the vine! To compensate for the high acidity in fruit harvested this early, Eymael gave many of his wines significant skin contact in the press, and he was also happy to the extent that the young wines dropped tartrates. But above all, the high extract inherent in this well-watered vintage serves to buffer acidity. The tart, brisk personality of some of this year’s wines thus comes as something of a shock relative to the vintage norm, but not considering the early harvest at this address.Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463.

Deep gold, with ripe apricot, spice and citrus notes, this dry Riesling feels oily on the palate, but not heavy. There's enough acidity for balance, with a moderate finish. Drink now through 2005. 840 cases made.??–BS??Region: Germany / Pfalz Select to Add

Rich and dry, showing the spicy citrus side of Riesling. Austere and slightly tart on the finish. Drink now through 2004.??–BS??Region: Germany / Pfalz Select to Add