The Pfeffingen 2008 Gewurztraminer Spatlese looks very sweet on paper with its combination of 40 grams residual sugar and a mere 7.2 grams of acid, but in fact there is an admirable sense of refreshment for the variety and a vintage-typical buoyancy. Lychee, rose petal, black tea, musk, and wood smoke on the nose all follow on a subtly oily palate otherwise dominated by luscious quince preserves. This finishes with surprisingly animated, juicy generosity and at the same time some animalistic intrigue. It will remain a delight for at least the next 7-9 years, though it needs to be paired carefully due to its sweetness. In 2009, the Eymaels rendered their first dry Gewurztraminer in years, from a parcel they groomed from the beginning for that purpose. It threatened to become another 2006, said Jan Eymael of the mid-September, 2008 rain, but even in the warmest parts of the Pfalz the weather stayed relatively cool, and he did not pick the first Rieslings until September 30, then continuing off and on for three weeks. The later it got, the better the grapes became, comments Eymael. Another month on the vine allowed for the November 18 picking of two magnificent nobly sweet Scheureben.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463

Pronounced spice notes mark the nose of this lithe, aromatic wine. At only 11.1% alcohol, it shows no fat, just straightforward pineapple fruit and plenty of gingery-peppery spice. An off-dry finish and crisp acids make this a top choice to pair with Indian or Thai dishes.——J.C.(6/1/2009)—— 87

Pfeffingen’s 2006 Ungsteiner Nussriegel Gewurztraminer Spatlese offers brine, celery seed, rose petal, and smoldering wood on the nose. As usual for this variety, this is subtly oily and noticeably sweet, but there is enough sappy, juicy, fresh, pearsy fruit to lend refreshment to the rose petal-strewn, honey-glazed finish. Pfeffingen suffered 40% losses vis a vis normal, even though most of their crop had already been picked when the worst rains arrived on October 3rd. Scheurebe was so resistant to the effects of rain, Jan Eymael reports, that they did not even begin picking it until all of the Riesling was finished, and at that point the fruit was still healthy. But not for long: a week later, says Eymael, Beerenauslese could be picked straight from the vine! To compensate for the high acidity in fruit harvested this early, Eymael gave many of his wines significant skin contact in the press, and he was also happy to the extent that the young wines dropped tartrates. But above all, the high extract inherent in this well-watered vintage serves to buffer acidity. The tart, brisk personality of some of this year’s wines thus comes as something of a shock relative to the vintage norm, but not considering the early harvest at this address.Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463.

This wine was rated, but no tasting note was given.Importer: A Rudi Wiest Selection, Cellar International, Inc., Carlsbad, CA; tel. (760) 753-4244