The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is stunningly beautiful and seductive in its red fruit, mint and tobacco. This is a surprisingly accessible vintage for the Cabernet Sauvignon. Today it looks like an excellent choice for readers who want to explore the wines of this iconic producer – as long as it doesn’t close down in bottle. Togni’s 2009 is notable for its exceptional elegance, finesse and pedigree. There is plenty of Spring Mountain structure, but today the 2009 is disarmingly sexy and radiant for such a young wine. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. This is a breathtaking set of wines from Philip, Birgitta and Lisa Togni. Philip Togni hardly needs an introduction to lovers of fine Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Since his epic 1969 Cabernet Sauvignon at Chappellet, Togni has crafted a series of impeccable, breathtaking wines. It is amazing to consider that Togni’s wines remain so reasonably priced when an endless number of new wineries with no track record seem to pop up every day with first releases well over $100 a bottle. The winery is very much a family affair, with Birgitta and, increasingly, Lisa Togni running the show. On an earlier visit this year I tasted the 1987, a wine that remains dazzling for its purity. From time to time Togni releases a small amount of wines from their library, usually at the 10th anniversary of an important vintage. I also tasted the 2008s, sleeper wines from an under-the-radar vintage that will thrill those who have the patience to cellar them. The Cabernet Sauvignon (here referred to as the Main Label) generally includes a dollop of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The estate’s Tanbark Hill is a second selection made from the barrels that don’t go into the Cabernet Sauvignon. All of the wines see approximately 40% new oak from four different tonneliers. Readers who want to learn more about the 2011 harvest at Togni may want to take a look at my video interview with Philip and Lisa Togni on www.erobertparker.comwww.philiptognivineyard.com

Dramatically better, the dark ruby/plum/garnet-hued 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate exhibits a subtly herbaceous nose with hints of sweet raspberries and black currants in the background. More backward than other great vintages such as 2007, 2005, 2004, 2002 and 2001, this medium to full-bodied, substantial 2008 needs 3-4 years of cellaring and should age for 15-20+ years. Although it is not one of his greatest classics, it is still a very fine effort, and will be very long-lived. The venerable Philip Togni continues to build an impressive resume on Spring Mountain where he produces long-lived red wines as well as a tiny quantity of a remarkable, sweet elixir from Black Muscat grapes, the Ca Togni.Tel. (707) 963-3731; Fax (707) 963-9186