Lots of acidity and black pepper in this bone-dry wine, giving it a scoury mouthfeel. But you’ll find very rich, elaborate blackberry and cherry jam, chocolate and bacon flavors. Drink now. ——S.H.(6/1/2011)—— 87

This superripe wine is a blast of blackberry, cherry and blueberry fruit, pureed in the blender and then sprinkled with a dusting of cocoa and white pepper. But it’s too sweet by far, and too soft, lacking the structure for balance.——S.H.(12/1/2007)—— 83

Dark and very dry, this distinctive Syrah has a leathery note, what the Brits used to call sweaty saddle, on top of ripe black currant, coffee and sweet vanilla flavors. It’s soft in texture and pretty tannic, but voluptuous. ——S.H.(4/1/2006)—— 86