Riper, darker and more concentrated, but not necessarily better, the 2016 Original also shows more rusticity and black rather than red fruit. It has abundant, fine-grained but slightly astringent tannins, some most likely extracted during the 15 months in new and second use barrels. 5,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2018.

The 2014 Original is a single-vineyard Tempranillo from old vines, and it seems like the source has changed to a plot in Gumiel del Mercado that yielded some 3,000 kilos of grapes per hectare. It fermented in 5,500-liter oak vats with natural yeasts where it also underwent malolactic. The wine matured in French barriques for 14 months. The oak is still present but quite subtle, and the wine is significantly cleaner than what I tasted last time, with a mixture of black fruit, spice, licorice and a touch of earth. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a little thin in the mid-palate, and with moderate acidity. A significant improvement. 7,000 bottles were filled in August 2016.

The 2009 Pico Cuadro Origen will spend 22 months in new French oak. Expressive aromas of sandalwood, Asian spices, lavender, incense, tapenade, black cherry, and blackberry jam lead to an opulent, richly fruity Tempranillo that has the structure to evolve for another 6-8 years. It will provide optimum drinking from 2017 to 2029 if not longer. Bodegas Pico Cuadro is an impressive newcomer to these pages. It is a family-owned winery that began operations in 2004 with 12 acres of vines ranging from 20 to 90+ years of age. Felipe Castrillo is the man in charge of the cellar and the originator of the project. Four of the 5 wines are barrel samples from the great 2009 vintage in Ribera del Duero with the wines composed of 100% Tempranillo raised in French oak.Importer: Classic Wine Selections, Stamford, CT; Tel. (203) 975-2522

The one finished wine is the 2008 Pico Cuadro Origen from a vintage at a lower level of quality than the 2009 (but still good). It is a bit more austere than the 2009 but nevertheless densely packed with savory black fruits and the balance to evolve for 4-6 years. Drink it from 2016 to 2023. Bodegas Pico Cuadro is an impressive newcomer to these pages. It is a family-owned winery that began operations in 2004 with 12 acres of vines ranging from 20 to 90+ years of age. Felipe Castrillo is the man in charge of the cellar and the originator of the project. Four of the 5 wines are barrel samples from the great 2009 vintage in Ribera del Duero with the wines composed of 100% Tempranillo raised in French oak.Importer: Classic Wine Selections, Stamford, CT; Tel. (203) 975-2522