With its poached pear, rose petal, and highly honeyed, spicy nose, as well as an opulent, oily-textured palate, the Sparr 2004 Gewurztraminer Mambourg makes no attempt to disguise its botrytized nature. This finishes with spicy, smoky, slightly fiery intensity that is impressively penetrating, and its modest sweetness fits the personality of the wine, which I would enjoy over the next several years. (The corresponding bottling from Sporen, harvested later and from older vines, was less well-balanced or interesting.) The enormous acreage controlled by the Sparr family – supplemented by purchased grapes, and since 2005 by the acquisition of Riquewihr’s Domaine Baumann as well – makes them among the commercially most important wineries in Alsace. Qualitatively, the extended selection of recent releases that I tasted here were a mixed bag, but only the best of them rose to the level of wholehearted recommendation. That number, incidentally, included several of the sparkling cuvees for which they are well known. The characteristic still wine here is soft, rich, slightly sweet, and often a bit loose and diffuse. Vintages 2004 and 2005 – with their frequent botryits component – are no doubt not the easiest for working in such a style.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

Low yields resulted in a ripe, viscous, rich, well-structured 1991 Gewurztraminer-Mambourg with layers of ripe fruit, medium to full body, and a heady, long finish with plenty of acidity for aging. This is a top notch Gewurztraminer! While Sparr's wines are rarely capable of hitting the peaks reached by the likes of Domaine Weinbach, Zind-Humbrecht, Albert Mann, or Schoffit, they are consistently reliable and fairly priced. This offering is an attractive, up-front, delicious, dry white.Importer: Hand Picked Selections, Dan Kravitz, Warrenton, VA.