Sparr's 2008 Riesling Reserve smells of apricot, gooseberry, and herbs, which carry into a lusciously juicy palate along with faintly bitter accents of lemon zest and juniper berry. A pleasant salinity informs the finish, although I wish that more of the sheer juiciness were carried along as well. Plan to enjoy this over the next couple of years while it is still fresh and citric. The characteristic wines from the enormous house of Sparr are soft and sometimes diffuse. They can exhibit delicacy, but that can easily cross a fine line into dilution.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

Light and airy, with a reticent nose of green apple, melon and faded flowers undercut by a slight funkiness. Quite dry, this is a good partner for raw clams. Drink up. ——W.E.(6/1/2010)—— 85

This reliable producer's success with the lower level wines in 1993 and 1994 was spotty, but these four cuvees merit readers' attention. The 1993 Riesling Reserve offers crisp, apple-like fruit, and a tangy, medium-bodied, elegant, attractive Riesling personality. This dry wine is ideal for drinking over the next 1-3 years. Importer: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (703) 347-3471