The 2010 Merlot Sito dell’Ulmo is a plush and darkly concentrated wine with rich layers of black cherry, prune, barbecue spice and black olive. It does, however, offer a surprising level of freshness and buoyancy for a warm climate Merlot. Drink 2014-2019. Diego Planeta, along with Giacomo Rallo of Donnfugata and Lucio Tasca d’Almerita, is one of the three founding fathers of the “Sicilian wine renaissance” sparked 10 to 15 years ago. Cousins Francesca, Santi and Alessio Planeta hold the reigns to the estate today and have developed one of the most innovative and modern wine entities in Italy (they are among the most “l(fā)iked” wineries on Facebook). The Planeta family boasts a gifted hand in marketing and their hard work has only helped to develop the “Sicily” brand within the many foreign markets they penetrate. Enormous credit goes to them. Although Planeta’s wines are always impressive, I was less enthused by this set of new releases. The entry-level products represent excellent value, but the top tier wines (including a wine I love very much, Santa Cecilia) are not at their peak performance. Importer: Palm Bay, www.palmbay.com

The 2008 Merlot comes across as dark, powerful and brooding in this vintage. Firm yet well-integrated tannins frame expressive dark, red cherries, smoke and licorice. There is plenty of depth in the glass, but a bit less in the way of real excitement. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

Planeta’s delicious Merlot opens with modern touches of spice and milk chocolate that enhance a solid core of red berry fruit. The tannins are soft and polished, but firm enough to give the wine impressive staying power. ——M.L.(4/1/2012)—— 90

The 2007 Merlot bursts onto the palate with attractive dark fruit. This plump, perfumed Merlot shows excellent overall balance and a finessed, round finish. Floral, minty notes add lift on the close. The Merlot is best enjoyed while the fruit is fresh and vibrant. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. This is a solid set of wines from Planeta, one of Sicily's better-known estates. As good as the best of these wines can be, they are also very safe. It would be nice to see Planeta take some more chances and make wines with a little more ambition. The raw materials certainly seem to be present to make that happen. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642