Conterno’s 2009 Langhe Nebbiolo Il Favot is a good introduction to the wines of this historic estate. Sweet red berries, flowers, French oak, anise and tobacco waft from the glass. This is a decidedly medium-bodied, fragrant wine. The Favot is Conterno’s entry-level Nebbiolo and is made from the estate’s younger vineyards, all of which are typically less than 20 years old. It is the only Nebbiolo aged in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. The recent passing of Aldo Conterno after a long bout with illness left a huge void in Piemonte. I still remember the first time I met Conterno. His extraordinary sense of dignity left a lasting impression. Conterno’s three sons have been in charge of the winery for some time, but it is still impossible not to feel the loss of a man who did so much for the image of Piemonte around the world. Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769

The 2006 Langhe Nebbiolo Il Favot is a very serious wine endowed with superb concentration and balance. This firm, vibrant Nebbiolo possesses gorgeous, refined tannins that render it enjoyable today, but readers who enjoy more aromatic nuance and complexity may want to cellar the wine for a few years. The sheer integrity of fruit here is remarkable. This is a great effort from Aldo Conterno. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. These 2006 reds from Aldo Conterno are well worth seeking out. I am far less enamored with the 2006 Langhe Chardonnay Bussiador, which comes across as heavy and lacking elegance. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461