The 2011 Langhe Dolcetto Masante is a gorgeous, classy wine. This is a fairly restrained, elegant Dolcetto with lovely fruit and plenty of understated persistence. Plums, tar, licorice and spices are some of the nuances that appear on the long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. The recent passing of Aldo Conterno after a long bout with illness left a huge void in Piemonte. I still remember the first time I met Conterno. His extraordinary sense of dignity left a lasting impression. Conterno’s three sons have been in charge of the winery for some time, but it is still impossible not to feel the loss of a man who did so much for the image of Piemonte around the world. Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769

The 2010 Langhe Dolcetto Masante is a big wine imbued with violets, tar, licorice and dark varietal fruit. It shows fabulous richness and intensity. I don’t taste the Masante often enough. The 2010 is certainly impressive. It is a bit of a bruiser, but there is no shortage of personality. A deep, muscular finish rounds things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769