The 1990 Barbaresco Montestefano reveals a gorgeously-scented nose of smoked nuts, black-cherries, cedar, and spice. Full-bodied with layers of concentrated, highly extracted fruit, this massive wine appears to be more tannic and backward than its 1989 sibling. The finish is immensely long. While approachable now, it will be at its best between 1998-2012+.Prunotto, now owned by the Tuscan firm of Antinori, continues to turn out superlative examples of Piedmontese wines. Importer: a Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Inc., HoHoKus, NJ.

This firm has been making spectacular wines recently. Their 1988s are excellent, and their 1989s potentially superb. The most forward and flattering of the current offerings is Prunotto's Barbaresco from the Montestefano vineyard. The 1988 Montestefano, which is evolving quickly, is delicious to drink. The medium ruby color is already showing some amber at the edge. The nose reveals earthy, sweet berry, spicy aromas that are followed by a smooth, velvety, textured wine with gorgeous fruit, and a soft, luscious finish. Drink it over the next 7-8 years.Importer: Empson (USA), Alexandria, VA.