Rough in texture, sharp in vinegary acids, this is a hard wine to like. It’s not going anywhere, but the fruity flavors wlll be fine with simple fare.——S.H.(11/1/2005)—— 83

This dark, brooding young pup is gorgeous now and will only get better. Toasty oak dominates the nose, masking ripe blackberry fruit. It really sings in the mouth, with a blast of fruit and spice, and dry, lacy tannins. It’s soft enough to drink tonight, but will hold well. ——S.H.(8/1/2001)—— 92