The 2010 LOUREIRO, i.e., the regular Branco from owner Pedro Araujo, is unoaked, and gloriously so. It is so fresh, pure and transparent, with beautifully well integrated bursts of acidity that it is almost immediately irresistible out of the gate. Elegant in the mid-palate, as Loureiro typically is, this lovely Branco is aromatic, a bit lemon tinged and laced with streaks of minerality. Not particularly dense, just 11.5% alcohol and without any “wow” factor, it is nonetheless persistent and charming and seems to acquire some solidity as it airs out and warms up, with a viscous texture coating the palate. Some two days later, it was, if anything, more expressive. There were 4,000 cases produced. Normally, I predict shorter lifespans for these, but the winery has consistently proven that it can make wines that age a bit. Still, be conservative, as I am—it drinks well now and it won’t turn into anything more special with age. Drink now-2015. Ameal, based in the popular town of Ponte de Lima, specializes in the Loureiro grape. This is one of those Vinho Verde (+ Minho--the regional, “vin de pays” appellation designation) estates trying to make wine without the fizz and in a more serious style. Owner Pedro Araujo declares that the wines can age, indeed, insisting that they can last for some 15 years. (Verticals at the winery suggest that might be true in the best years, although what happens at the winery is not always duplicated in the distribution chain.) The prices are, not surprisingly, higher and the production levels are low. The more traditional, fizzy Vinhos Verdes can still be quite charming for summer and they certainly have a place. These from Ameal are a different style—give them a try. Note that Loureiro is a grape that tends to produce rather elegant wines. While these are in a more serious style, it is not a white Rhone, nor intended to be. Don’t expect power and concentration here. That’s not what they are.Importer: IPO Wines, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 243-9463

The 2009 LOUREIRO, aged in stainless steel, from the sub-region of Lima, is crisp, mouthpuckering and laced with lemons and grapefruit, particularly on opening. It comes in at 11% alcohol. This very fine Loureiro has lovely aromatics and some delicacy, as befits the grape, but despite its subtlety as it warms, it also has good body for the grape, persistence on the finish, fine texture -- and that acidity, of course, which lends it grip and intensity and a lemon-y zing. It is simply refreshing. Although it is certainly approachable (when tasted in July, 2010) in that old “sit by the river, drink the invigorating, wake-me-up wine” style, a few months to settle down sure wouldn’t hurt this. It sure showed better with some air and warmth, although the acidity remained piercing. If you like its style, this is exceptional Loureiro. There were 50,000 bottles produced. The wines from this property have fooled me before, and I suspect this will hold longer and better than one might expect, but for safest results drink on the younger side. I think “peak” will be over the next year or so. Drink now-2013. Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 243-9463