The 2005 Taurasi Vigna Quintodecimo is a thrill a minute. Unabashedly rich, concentrated and opulent, the 2005 boasts eye-popping intensity from start to finish. Layers of dark red fruit, flowers and licorice all take shape in the glass. Aging in French oak gives the wine added textural volume and depth, but the oak is also impeccably balanced. This is a decidedly modern, full-throttle wine built on fruit rather than more typical varietal notes. I can’t wait to see how it ages. Though not inexpensive by any means, the 2005 is pure hedonistic pleasure. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. Proprietor Luigi Moio continues to set the bar high – very high – at his small property in Campania. Moio’s rich, textured whites and reds are among the most exciting wines being made in Italy today. I never miss a chance to drink them, and neither should you. Importer: Omniwines Distributing Co. Llc., Linden Hill, NY; tel. (718) 353-8700

The 2005 Taurasi Vigna Quintodecimo, here in just its second vintage, impresses for its intensity and sense of harmony. A dark, concentrated wine, the Taurasi Vigna Quintodecimo flows from the glass with layers of dark plums, wild cherries, spices and earthiness, all of which are woven together in a sumptuous fabric of notable class. A long, polished finish rounds things out in style. In 2005 Moio produced just 2,000 bottles of Taurasi from two hectares in the Quintodecimo vineyard, while all of the barrels that weren’t up to his rigorous standards were blended into that year’s Terra d’Eclano. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Consulting oenologist Luigi Moio is one of the most influential people in the viticultural landscape of southern Italy. In recent years, Moio has begun to garner significant attention for the wines he makes at his own property, Quintodecimo. These rich, textured whites and reds are quickly establishing themselves among the elite. Quintodecimo fans can look forward to a new single-vineyard Taurasi from the Cersito vineyard, a due south parcel on volcanic soils, which will be released in 2013.Importer: Omniwines Distributing Co. Llc., Linden Hill, NY; tel. (718) 353-8700

The 2004 Taurasi Vigna Quintodecimo is fabulous. Dark black cherries, licorice, smoke and graphite emerge from the glass as this refined, elegant Taurasi shows off its personality. It remains incredibly young for a wine of its age, with virtually no tertiary development whatsoever. The tannins are energetic, yet well-integrated, suggesting the wine has a very long life ahead of it. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Luigi Moio continues to set a very high bar. His are some of the most fascinating wines to emerge from Campania, or Italy for that matter. Moio favors a rich, textured style that places his wines in more of a modernist vein, but make no mistake about it, these remain incredibly food-friendly wines that push the limits of what can be achieved with Campania's native varieties, but without losing sight of their roots. I am always thrilled when I see the wines pop up on restaurant wine lists. Importer: Omniwines Distributing Co. Llc., Linden Hill, NY; tel. (718) 353-8700