Virtually all of the 4,000+ cases of Rancho Sisquoc's wines are sold via a mailing list or directly from the winery, so subscribers are not likely to see much of this producer's wines on retailers' shelves. Such is the case with many of Santa Barbara's highest quality wineries. This vast ranch includes over 200 acres, but most of the grapes are sold to wineries such as Robert Mondavi, Foxen, and Gainey. The 1990 Merlot-Estate is a lush, fleshy, densely concentrated wine with plenty of cherry fruit. Drink it over the next 6-7 years. Lamentably, readers will have to get on Rancho Sisquoc's mailing list in order to latch on to a few of these gems. Tel. (805) 934-4332