The 2020 Branco Evel is an unoaked blend of 40% Viosinho, 25% Rabigato, 25% Fern?o Pires and 10% Moscatel, very dry and coming in at 13.7% alcohol. If you're comparing, this is not quite as fruit-forward as the somewhat less expensive Branco Porca de Mur?a this issue, but it is a bit more focused and just a little more serious in style. That doesn't necessarily mean it's dramatically better, just different. Still at a very reasonable price level (and perhaps less than listed here), this elegant but fresh wine seems nicely balanced and reasonably deep for the category. It could use a bit more energy, as I noted with the Porca de Mur?a (they seem pretty ripe in this vintage, though), but right now it drinks beautifully. Drink it young for best results.

The 2017 Branco Evel is an unoaked blend of Viosinho (40%), Rabigato (25%), Fern?o Pires (20%) and Moscatel (15%). It comes in at 13% alcohol. This has a little bit more depth than the Porca Branco this issue but not quite as much personality. This also has a bit more grip on the finish. These are both excellent values, but this is a bit more serious. Which you prefer will depend on how you like the Moscatel aromatics that so strongly affect the Porca. This will be at its best if drunk young, although it can hold a bit.

The 2013 Branco "Evel" is an unoaked blend of 40% Viosinho, 20% Rabigato, 20% Moscatel & 20% Fern?o Pires. It comes in at 13% alcohol. If I thought the winery's Porca da Mur?a white was a nice value at its even more modest price point, this is an even better bargain for just a little more. In a similar style--fresh, perky, distinctively flavored--it adds a layer of concentration and a bit more focus. It is a bit more viscous, with a better finish, too, although it doesn't project quite the same stonewashed purity. It drinks exceptionally well overall. At its price point, dive in. It should be a great picnic wine or porch sipping wine this summer. After that, we'll see where we are when we get there--but it is designed for early consumption.

The 2011 BRANCO “EVEL” is a blend of Moscatel, Viosinho, Arinto and Fernao Pires, unoaked. With well integrated acidity and impeccable balance, it is fresh and awfully tasty, nuanced by the grape blend and a touch of grass. It grew on me steadily as it opened up, seeming quite delicious. Charming and friendly, it is well priced and likely to be an easygoing crowd pleaser. It will last a bit longer, but it is probably at peak right now. Drink now-2014. Importer: Admiral Wine Imports, Cedar Grove, N.J.; tel: (973) 559-9527.

An herbal wine, crisp and green with an attractive citrus edge. Some yellow fruits show while it is the acidity and taut mineral character that is dominant. ——R.V.(2/1/2012)—— 86