After the Kabinett from this site that came before, I had high hopes for Kesselstatt’s 2004 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Spatlese*** trocken. Smoky, spicy, toasted nut and piquantly herbal notes inform both the nose and palate, although suggestions of citrus and of apricot and yellow plum (and their pits) are also much in evidence. Rich in texture and deep in tone on the palate, this offers an almost Burgundian expression of chalky minerality and an impressive layering of finishing flavors. Ultimately it fails to reach the refinement of its Kabinett perhaps only insofar as that wine offers equal complexity with less alcohol, whereas a hint of heat seems traceable to this Spatlese’s twelve percent.Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424.
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