The von Kesselstatt estate released four GG bottlings in 2009, and this wine was perhaps the least of them. It’s very good nonetheless, with fresh, slightly floral aromas and bold flavors of baked apple and orange zest. There’s a chunkiness in the mouth and a slight coarseness of texture compared to the others, but that’s splitting hairs. ——J.C.(6/1/2011)—— 88