Reilly’s 2006 Stolen Block Shiraz was aged in 50% new French oak for 18 months. A glass-coating opaque purple color, it offers up an enticing nose of smoked meat, game, spice box, and blueberry. Round, sweet, and layered on the palate, this well-balanced Shiraz will evolve for 2-3 years and be at its best from 2011 to 2021. Importer: Southern Starz, Huntington Beach, CA; tel. (714) 892-3030

Marked on the nose by scents of berry, rhubarb and leather, this wine morphs on the palate to offer flavors of prune, chocolate and date. Although the tannins are supple, the wine’s substantial alcohol (15.8%) shows through on the finish. Probably best consumed in its youth.——J.C.(2/1/2010)—— 84

The 2005 Stolen Block Shiraz received the same upbringing as its colleagues. Saturated purple in color, it offers a brooding bouquet of wood smoke, mineral, earth notes, bacon, and blueberry. Opulent, dense, and full-bodied, this impressively built wine has impeccable balance and 8-10 years of aging potential. Its drinking window should be open from 2016 to 2030. Reilly’s entry level wines are labeled “Barking Mad” and generally offer excellent value. All of the wines noted below in italics are worth a try. Importer: Southern Starz, Huntington Beach, CA; tel. (714) 892-3030

The 2004 Stolen Block Shiraz comes from an 80+-year-old vineyard yielding 0.75 tons per acre. It spent 18 months in French oak, 50% new. The nose offers up smoky oak, plum, licorice, raisin, blueberry, and blackberry liqueur. On the palate this full-bodied wine is sweeter and richer than its cousins while managing to retain some elegance. Cellar it for 4-6 years and drink it through 2024. Importer: Ken Onish and John Gorman, Southern Starz; www.reillyswines.com Also tasted: N.V. Sparkling Mad Shiraz (84)